There are more than 800 people, including actors, dancers and musicians who star in this amazing theatrical performance that includes dances and praises to the Sun God. They are dressed in typical clothing and process through Cusco and perform outside important archaeological sites such as the temple of Qorikancha, the main square of the city and the Sacsayhuaman Archaeological Park.
Apparently, the Inti Raymi was established by Pachacutec and was celebrated every year during the winter solstice of the southern hemisphere, the day when the Sun was farthest from the Earth. It was so important that everyone from all around the Incan empire would gather in Cusco to attend.
And of course, after spending a whole month in Cusco and the Sacred Valley, I thought that we HAD to get back to Cusco for Inti Raymi. But to see the performance from either Qorikancha or Saqusaywaman, we had to buy tickets that had long since sold out. So, in fact the main square was the only place you could enter the festival without a ticket. We arrived early in the morning to the main square, feeling very unsure that we will be able to see anything. You see the night before we overheard some people in our hotel saying that they planned to get to the main square at 4 in the morning to make sure they find a good spot. Our hopes were very low at this point but, luckily, we found a nice place at the front of the Cathedral. Phew....!
When the performance started, some actors dressed as guards rushed into the plaza checking every corner for intruders. That got the crowds very excited and created a great sense of suspense. After that, four big groups of people came in the plaza, each dressed as different tribes that were part of the Inca empire. They danced their way in the square and showed off their fabulous dresses. After them, four groups of soldiers came in with spears and shields and lined up in between two rows of the tribes. The interesting thing was that the men of the tribes were in front of the soldiers and the women behind.
There was a lot going on, but the whole plaza was in such celebratory mood and the whole performance was amazingly well choreographed. I guess they prepare for it for months, and it is the most important festivity in Peru!
The bit that I loved the most was the characters dressed as a jaguar, a condor and a snake, the most important animals for the Inkas. They crept into the plaza and were acting out their respectable animals amongst the parade. In the whole of the procession, the jaguar was my favourite character.
After much anticipation, the Inca queen entered on a litter carried by some soldiers and was followed by someone carrying a shade for her and then her maids throwing flower petals behind her. That was very impressive and made everyone even more excited to see the Inca king.
After the Queen's procession, came some people sweeping the floor with plants and then some women chucking flowers down for the king and his litter. And then he arrived! His litter had a golden seat and he was standing at its front with a golden staff and crown. The crowds went crazy as he passed and saluted them, and then stopped in the middle of the square where a replica of an Inca pyramid was.
He then went up the steps of the pyramid and started talking to his father, the Sun. All of this was in Quechua so we didn't understand anything he said but there was something about the triumphant return of the sun in the shortest day and the longest night and the beginning of the new agricultural year.
In Inca times, the shaman would sacrifice llamas so they can predict the prosperity and well-being of the coming year. But nowadays of course they don't do that. So what do they do? Well, there is a lot of singing and dancing and also they simulate a sacrifice with fake llamas and with a ceremony using coca leaves.
I am so glad we managed to see Inti Raymi. When it was all over, I was buzzing! The whole city of Cusco was wrapped in an atmosphere of celebration and fun for the whole day and it was all such a huge party. Somehow, it felt like the best way to say goodbye to Cusco, the Sacred Valley and our Inca adventures.
Mmm interesting comment at the end Orestis. I had been wondering whether you would find it weird going back to Cusco with lots of people, noise and music but no you take it in your stride. It is amazing how seamlessly you move from one experience to the next. Beautiful. Mxx
ReplyDelete